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Product Information:
Here's a full breakdown on which parts are potmetal, steel, and plastic.
*You should note that I have almost completely disassembled the gun, part by part save for where the front end connects to the receiver. Everything else has been disassembled and reassembled by me.
Potmetal:
-Lower receiver
-Receiver cover
-Outer barrel
-Front sight
-Rear sight
-Sight mount
-Front receiver
-Part where carrying handle attaches to gun (I wouldn't trust a 20lb $450 gun with this)
-Gas tube
-Hop Up unit (It's metal, good.)
-Gearbox Shell
Steel
-Carrying handle (Don't use this)
-Screws
-Sling loops
-Heatshield
-Body pins
-Mount for the box mag (Very good)
-Charging handle
-Should rest-piece
Plastic
-Front Grip
-Hand Grip
-Buttstock
-Safety Selector
-Carrying handle has a rubber grip
-Cheekrest on receiver cover
I don't know what it shot stock (No chrono, but it's a MINIMUM of 350fps. The stock bucking is cheap rubber and should be replaced. I replaced mine with a Systema Bucking along with a Madbull 590mm TBB (The stock barrel would probably have been fine, but I went all out for a $450 gun) and got amazing results.
At 200 feet I can hit close to a man sized target (I've measured the distance) on TSD .28g BB's. Since it's a support gun accuracy should not be your number one concern, but being able to match an opponent's range is very helpful.
-On a Tenergy small type 9.6v battery (Small type Tamiya) I am getting maybe 12 rps.
I like it, and although I've contemplated getting a new motor (Short type) as I've HEARD the stock is close to maxed on it's spring, I do not wish to burn through ammo faster than I am.
-The mag is an electric auto-winding box mag. It hold roughly 3500 rounds and attaches to the gun via resting in a stiff pouch which velcro straps onto the side mounted "box magazine mount".
It, unlike other box mags, uses the battery for the gun, not a pair of AA's that require the mag to be taken apart to replace. If the battery dies, slide it out of the pouch and slide a new on into place or, if you're using small types which multiple ones will fit, simply switch the connectors.
So both the battery and the mag part rest inside the stiff, square pouch. Coming from the gun are two connectors. One connects the battery to the gun while the other connects the gun to the mag's internal motor.
The mechanism for the box mag is simply a high cap winding device with a motor attached so that it winds as you shoot.
Bringing me to the feed style selector for the box mag. If you remove the mag from the pouch you will see a switch with "auto, off, and contiuum".
Auto has the mag winding constantly, off turns the mag off, and continuum onyl feeds when the trigger is pulled. There is also an input for a remote 3.5mm plug that winds the mag on command.
I only use continuum as auto would quickly overwind the mag and since the mag is only functional when in the pouch and that, when in the pouch, the switch is inaccessible.
Also to note that the switch is right next to where you put the battery and is subject to being jostled out of position, causing the gun to either stop firing (Off) or constantly feed (Auto).
To fix this I partially dissassebled the mag and clipped the switch down a little so that I can still toggle it (Out of the pouch), but it is no longer in the way.
The BB's go from teh mag into the gun vial a spring tube like the ones for SAW's. I've used my gun a few times and have only had the spring pop loose of the nut on the end. This only required screwing the bolt back onto the end and had been the result of some intense movement. I also tested the full range of motion for the mag on the gun and found that the spring is never overstretched or compromised.
Onto the gearbox:
It's a SAW type gearbox and is reported to be very sturdy. Most every gearbox will not break (Save for v.2's) on the 400fps spring this gun MIGHT have (No chrono). As most fields allow no more than 400fps for AEG's it is perfectly satisfactory.
Like the SAW gearbox it will take most all standard v.2/v.3 internal parts except for: The wiring system, the tappet plate (As far as I know, it's not a special one, but I don't know if there are matches for different guns), and the nozzle (Much longer than a normal AEG).
The gears are A&K steel and the bushings are Ball Bearing type (I don't know MM). The motor is a non-descript gray short type and the cylinder is a type 0. The piston is a standard AEG piston and took to a new G&P Explosive piston head fine. The spring guide is made of metal and attaches to the plug for the spring quick change feature, which I will get to in a moment.
All of the gears were shimmed with uneven brass washers. Replace these ASAP. They were concave when I took them out and are poorly sized. Also, the gearbox needs grease as there is only a dollop plopped next to the spur gear. Otherwise, there is no grease on any part of the gun, which is good as you won't need to clean out the old stuff.
*The spur gear when I recieved my gun wobbles as you turn it. I've put plenty of rounds through it and so far there have been no problems as the wobble is only slight and I have reshimmed to compensate. Perhaps a new spur gear would change this
The wiring is a SAW type switch, but this time A&K got it right with the conact of the switch to the trigger so you won't have to modify it to fit the gun. The gearbox connects the the gun via a three pronged plug that is secured to the gearbox so that when you remove it it comes out as a single unit.
The spring quick change feature is amazing. I wish they had this in all AEG gearboxes, but I'll settle. Normally, opening a gearbox requires holding the spring in place and safety glasses so that the spring doesn't pop other pieces out of place and sends them across the room. With the quick change feature you push the plug in, lift the tab on top of the gearbox, and the spring, spring guide, and plug all are able to be removed, keeping pressure off the gearbox as you open it up.
Unfortunately, while with the SAW's you are able to use the 'quick' part at a field where you find your gun under or overclassed, the M60E1 requires that the gearbox be removed from the reciever by six hex screws.
Although, once the screws are out the gearbox is removable painlessly as the three pronged plug is static to both the shell and the receiver. THERE ARE NO WIRES YOU HAVE TO TUCK AWAY. I've always had the problem with my AK's and MP5, but not with this one.
Performance and Usage:
I like it, but only after I tightened various screws (Not hard, just do it), changed the bucking out (Better accuracy), and reshimmed the gearbox. After those things it's great. I adjusted the hop up and have it tuned for 200 ft shots with the iron sights which can be a pain to use as they can limit your field of view, but are flip-upable. Although they are good for wanting to know right where your gun will be shooting.
As for the weight everyone complains about. It is a 20lb gun with a full mag, but it's not like lifting a 20lb weight (Which I tried to try and see what the gun might feel like). It feels lighter than that, but it is still difficult to keep shouldered for periods of time.
BUT, this is a different kind of heavy. most everyone can hold 20lds on their shoulder, but try shouldering a sledgehammer. The bipod is the bulk of the weight problem.
All you have to do is unscrew the flashhider adn take the bipod off. Once it's off you'll notice a huge difference. You might say you'll need the bipod as the gun will just be to heavy, but without the bipod you'll be able to should it like a regular assault rifle. I'm only 120lbs at 5'11" and I'm able to weild it just fine. If I can run around for an hour with it, so can you.
Plus, there's a steel flip up should rest on the butt of the gun that helps take the weight off your arms when shouldering it in either standing or prone with/without the bipod.
As for the mag being in the way, I've had no problem with it. You have to hold the gun away from your body a little, but not much and if you remove the bipod you will barely notice the mag being in the way at all. Even with the bipod, the problem in minute.
Lastly, the Adjustable rate MOSFET feature:
One word; Useless. Fortunately, A&K provides you with a byppass plug (A triple pin tamiya with a wire going across two pins, you could make one yourself if you lost it) that simply clips right onto where you'd normally connect the mosfet to the gun. This has the gun shoot at it's full ROF instead of a limited ROF.
Basically, it's a nice idea, but since the gun doesn't normally fire at 30rps you won't have much room for adjustment between dead battery sound and 12 rps. It's good if you installed a high ROF motor/gears in it and want to conserve ammo, but, after examining it and seeing as it is comprised of small components (And finding a guy on ASF whole had his get wet and malfunction), I wouldn't trust it on a high ROF. Not to mention you can only use a 9.6v max with it.
Alot of people have noted that the dial knob takes awhile to adjust the ROF. It can be unscrewed to reveal the actual dial on the MOSFET. If you adjust that you'll find that you don't need to turn it alot.
I did a test. The first time I turned the knob quickly. It took awhile before I noticed a difference in ROF. Then I turned it slowly and listend to the clicking. In less than a full turn I had adjusted the ROF all the way up and back down.
To sum it up, buy it. If you want a light machine gun that looks like a machine gun then this is for you. It's 1/4 the price of any other gun so you can actually hope to own it on a budget, and the quality it sturdy. I certainly hope that I do not experience any problem with it in the next few years and I don't expect to. It feels awesome to stand in front of your friends while weilding a gun this size.
Pros:
-Aftermarket accuracy on stock spring with just a new barrel and bucking (Madbull/Systems) was great at 200 ft. shots.
-Plastic is reported to be Nylon Fiber which is strong
-Mag is run on the gun's battery, not a pair of AA's. The mag is down when the gun is down, not the other way around.
-Sturdy SAW gearbox
-Spring quick change feature is good for working on the gearbox and swapping out (Only if a workbench is available)
-Gearbox is easy to work on, almost fun
-Removing the gearbox does not require tucking wires as it comes out as a single unit.
-No lube means you don't need to clean it out
-Removing the bipod allows you to keep the gun shouldered better and is how I usually use it
-Adjustable ROF MOSFET is good for higher ROF setups
Cons:
-Gearbox needed lubbed and reshimmed. Something that all new guns should have checked
-A large part of the gun is potmetal, but most airsoft guns are
-Stock accuracy was sub par, new bucking is recommended
-Adjustable ROF feature is virtually useless and may be adding to the cost(?)
-Switch for mag needed to be clipped down and is inaccessible while attached to the gun
-Spring quick change feature requires the gearbox to be removed from the gun
-Spur gear wobbles as it turns.
-The weight with the bipod requires you to lay down and use the bipod
-Removing the bipod makes it slightly more difficult to stay prone for long periods of time
-Mag requires the gun to be weilded differently
-MOSFET is delicate and can only handle up to a 9.6v
Rating:  [5 of 5 Stars!] |
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